Why Your Hardwood Floors Gap in Winter (and What Capital Region Homeowners Can Do)
Every winter, homeowners across Albany, Saratoga Springs, Schenectady and Troy notice the same thing: "There are gaps between my floorboards that weren't there in the summer. Is something wrong?"
Usually, the answer is no. Your floor is doing what real wood does. But some gaps are a sign that something needs attention. Here's how to tell the difference, and what you can do about it.
Wood moves with the seasons
Hardwood is a natural material, and it never fully stops reacting to the air around it. The National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) puts it simply: in humid conditions wood takes on moisture and swells, and in dry conditions it gives up moisture and shrinks (NWFA, Problem Prevention).
Here in the Capital Region, our seasons pull floors in both directions. Summers are warm and sticky. Then the furnace kicks on in the fall, and heated winter air inside the house gets very dry. As your floorboards lose moisture over the winter, each board gets a little narrower, and thin gaps open up between them. When spring and summer humidity returns, the boards take that moisture back and the gaps usually close.
What's normal and what isn't
According to the NWFA, gaps and splits that appear and disappear with normal seasonal changes are considered normal. Many older homes in Troy, Schenectady and Albany have solid wood floors that have opened and closed like this for decades.
It's time to have a professional take a look if:
The gaps are large. Think wide enough to catch a coin edge or collect a lot of dirt.
The gaps don't close up during the more humid months. The NWFA specifically calls this out as the point to call a pro.
Boards are cupping. The edges of each board sit higher than the center. That's usually the opposite problem: too much moisture, often from a leak, a damp basement or crawlspace, or wet cleaning.
Boards are splitting on the face, not just separating at the seams.
The simple fix: manage your indoor humidity
The single best thing you can do for a wood floor is keep the house in a steady range. The NWFA recommends keeping your home between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit and between 30 and 50 percent relative humidity, all year round (NWFA, Problem Prevention).
In a Capital Region winter, that usually means adding moisture back into the air:
Get an inexpensive hygrometer. It's a small digital humidity gauge sold at hardware stores. You can't manage what you don't measure.
Run a humidifier if your readings drop below about 30%. A whole-house humidifier on your furnace is the most hands-off option. A good room humidifier works for a single space.
Keep the thermostat steady. Big temperature swings mean big humidity swings.
In summer, do the opposite. Use air conditioning or a dehumidifier so readings don't climb above about 50%, especially in basements and older homes.
Cleaning habits that protect your floor (especially in winter)
Winter brings snow, slush and road salt to the front door, and it's tempting to grab a wet mop. Don't. The NWFA advises against wet mops and steam mops, which damage the finish and the wood over time (NWFA, Maintenance). Instead:
Sweep, dust-mop, or vacuum on the bare-floor setting to pick up grit, which scratches like sandpaper.
Wipe up spills and melted snow right away with a dry or slightly damp cloth.
Use a cleaner made for your floor's finish. Ask your flooring pro which one.
Put mats at entry doors to catch salt and sand before they reach the wood.
Use felt pads under chair and table legs (NWFA, Problem Prevention).
Should I fill the gaps?
For normal seasonal gaps, filling them is usually not a good idea. When the boards swell again in summer, there's nowhere for them to go, and that can lead to cupping or crushed edges. The better fix is controlling humidity so the gaps stay small.
Some situations do call for a professional repair: gaps that never close, damaged or loose boards, or a floor that has been through water damage. A flooring pro can figure out the cause first, whether that's moisture from below, an installation issue, or simply very old, very dry wood, and then recommend the right fix. Sometimes that means replacing or re-laying a few boards. Sometimes it's part of a full sand and refinish.
Solid vs. engineered: does it matter?
Yes. The NWFA notes that engineered wood floors expand and contract less than solid wood, which is why they're often recommended for basements and other spots with bigger moisture swings (NWFA, Types of Wood Floors). Solid hardwood moves more, but it can be sanded and refinished many more times over its life. If you're planning new floors, we'll talk through which makes sense for each room. See our FAQ for more on solid vs. engineered.
When to call Allwood Floors
Allwood Floors has installed, repaired and refinished hardwood floors across the Capital Region since 2001. We work in Albany, Saratoga, Schenectady and Rensselaer counties. If your gaps are large, aren't closing, or you're seeing cupping or splits, we're happy to come out, find the cause, and give you a straight answer, even if the answer is "just run a humidifier."
Request a free estimate or see some of our restoration work.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are gaps in hardwood floors normal in winter?
Usually, yes. Wood shrinks as it loses moisture in dry, heated winter air. The NWFA considers gaps normal if they appear and disappear with the seasons.
What humidity should I keep my house at for hardwood floors?
The NWFA recommends 30–50% relative humidity and 60–80°F year-round.
Will the gaps close up on their own?
Seasonal gaps typically close as humidity rises in spring and summer. If they stay open during humid months, have a professional inspect the floor.
Should I fill the gaps with wood filler?
Generally not for seasonal gaps. Filler can restrict the boards when they swell again. Talk to a flooring pro about gaps that never close.
Can I use a steam mop on my hardwood floors?
No. The NWFA advises against wet and steam mops because they damage the finish and wood over time.
Sources: National Wood Flooring Association consumer guidance:
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